According to Web Speech API Errata (E11 2013-10-17), the voice list is loaded async to the page. An onvoiceschanged
event is fired when they are loaded.
voiceschanged: Fired when the contents of the SpeechSynthesisVoiceList, that the getVoices method will return, have changed. Examples include: server-side synthesis where the list is determined asynchronously, or when client-side voices are installed/uninstalled.
So, the trick is to set your voice from the callback for that event listener:
// wait on voices to be loaded before fetching list
window.speechSynthesis.onvoiceschanged = function() {
window.speechSynthesis.getVoices();
...
};